Jewelry knowledge from A to Z
Jewelry encyclopedia from Jeweler Hangl
Jeweler Hangl - Your jewelry expert
The world of jewelry is as fascinating as it is multifaceted. Do you know the different ways in which gemstones can be set? The possibilities of alloys? We give you an insight into the fascinating world of jewelry knowledge in our jewelry encyclopedia at Hangl Jewelers in Samnaun and Ischgl.
Alliancering
The name comes from the French word alliance, which means "alliance" or "union". Alliance rings are available for both men and women. Three to five gemstones are set in a row in the ring, which sit across the finger.
Carat
The weight of gemstones is given in carats. The abbreviation is ct. One carat corresponds exactly to a weight of 0.2 grams.
Diamond
Diamonds have fascinated us since time immemorial, which is why diamonds are the best-selling gemstone in the jewelry sector. Consisting of cubic crystallized carbon, the diamond is the hardest mineral with a Mohs hardness of 10. Diamonds are valued according to the so-called 4 Cs, Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat, which provide information about the value of a diamond.
Doublé
Doublé is a precious metal coating that is pressed or welded onto a precious or base metal base such as silver, steel or tombac in a red-hot state.
Precious metals
Precious metals are rare and are characterized by their special properties, such as their good workability, their resistance, their surface shine, etc. Precious metals include gold, silver, platinum, rhodium, palladium, iridium, osmium and ruthenium. Precious metals are alloyed to make jewelry, as they are relatively soft. This increases their hardness and polishability. The color, fineness, price, density and melting point also change.
Gemstones
Gemstones are rare and coveted because of their properties. Particularly well-known gemstones include amethyst, ruby and sapphire. The diamond is considered the "king of gemstones" and is in a price class of its own. You can find more information on the most popular gemstones in our gemstone encyclopedia.
Gold
The precious metal with the chemical symbol "Au" for aurum is an integral part of the jewelry world. Gold is found in Australia, China, the USA, South Africa, Russia and other countries. As gold is too soft a material, it is rarely used in jewelry in its pure form, but rather as an alloy. For this purpose, it is alloyed with other metals to make it harder. Gold is available in various colored gold alloys, which are colored by the addition of alloying metals. Some of the best-known gold colors are Yellow, medium, red, rose, green and white gold.
Gold carat
Gold carat is abbreviated to kt. and should not be confused with ct. - the abbreviation for the unit of weight of gemstones. The carat indicates the fine gold content. So what does it mean when gold jewelry is 24-carat? This means that it is made of pure gold to which nothing has been added. Jewelry made of 18-karat gold (750/000) consists of 18 parts fine gold and 6 parts alloy metal. 14-karat gold (585/000) consists of 14 parts fine gold and 10 parts alloy metal.
Engraving
Engraving involves creating drawings on precious metal using steel tools such as gravers. This work can be carried out by the engraver by hand or by machine. There is so-called "flat engraving", which looks like a pencil drawing, and "relief engraving", in which a raised image with a three-dimensional effect is created by removing surrounding metal.
Invisible Setting
Jewelry with gemstones set in invisible settings offers a fascinating sight, as the setting itself is invisible and the gemstones appear as if they have been set in a mosaic. This type of setting was developed in France. Angular cuts, such as the carrée or baguette cut, are among the most suitable for this type of setting. The round bars of the gemstones are provided with grooves and springs and are held under tension in the invisible setting. This work must be carried out accurately by hand and requires many years of experience.
Channel socket
In channel setting, gemstones and diamonds are set between two lateral precious metal rails, also known as grooves. The gemstones lie directly next to each other, creating a continuous band.
Prong setting
A popular type of setting. The prong setting, in which a gemstone is held in place by means of "claws", so-called "chatons", is particularly popular for engagement rings. The setting looks like a small "crown" into which the gemstone is set at the top.
Grain collection
Small grains of precious metal are pierced with a graver and pressed over the rondel of the gemstones to be set. With this type of setting, the gemstones can be seen in full size and can be set close together, creating an attractive sight.
Memo ring
The memoir ring is an extraordinary piece of jewelry, as it is intended to commemorate the most beautiful moments in life. One diamond is set in the ring band for each occasion, such as a birth, christening or anniversary, so that over time you will receive a sparkling half or full diamond ring.
Pearl
Nowadays, cultured pearls are mainly used for pearl jewelry. To create a pearl, a foreign body is inserted into a shell. In order to repel this, the shell places layers of mother-of-pearl around the foreign body. This is how pearls are formed over time.
Platinum
Platinum is rarer than gold and its name is derived from the Spanish word "platina", which means small silver. Platinum is mainly found in Russia and South Africa. Unlike silver, platinum does not oxidize and is resistant to acids. As it is harder than gold, it is often used for gemstone settings. Platinum jewelry is particularly recommended for people with metal allergies, as it is absolutely skin-friendly and does not cause allergies.
Round list
The round edge, also known as the girdle, is the circumferential edge between the upper and lower part of cut gemstones. It can vary in thickness and design. Round bars can be polished, faceted or rubbed.
silver
Silver (Ag) is a popular precious metal for jewelry and has been used since the fifth century BC. The name comes from the Latin "Argentum". The shiny white precious metal is soft, malleable and easy to polish as well as being the best conductor of electricity and heat. The most common silver alloys are 925 sterling silver, 835 or 800 jewelry or working silver. Silver is usually alloyed with copper, occasionally also with palladium.
Solitaire
A solitaire is a piece of jewelry with a single, centrally placed gemstone that protrudes slightly above the ring band.
Frame mounting
The bezel setting is also known as a blurred setting. The gemstone is surrounded by a "frame" so that the stone is not visible in its full size. The frame usually consists of a metal strip. When setting, the metal is carefully driven over the edge of the gemstone (round bar) with the setting hammer until the gemstone is seated. This type of setting is not recommended for soft or brittle gemstones such as opals. The advantage of the bezel setting is that the gemstones are protected and you cannot get caught with the piece of jewelry, e.g. in a pair of tights.
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